My dog’s recall is not good – will long line training help?

Although most owners achieve the off-lead control they want from their dogs with little difficulty, for some things do not go as smoothly. Dogs that display unwanted behaviours, such as running off to go hunting or simply not coming back when called, have to be trained to respond to their owner's wishes. This can be a problem if the owner does not have a secure outdoor area in which to practice. Even if they do or they train their dog at a dog training club there is a good chance that the training will be effective in that environment but remains specific to it. The difficulty is compounded if the owner is trying to train against a more serious problem such as aggression towards other dogs or inappropriate chase behaviour.

Of course, training in an open area can start when a dog is on an ordinary lead but these are quite restrictive when it comes to recall training. An extending lead provides more flexibility but the time must come when the dog has made enough progress to be given more freedom if not, training cannot be developed further. The obvious answer to the dilemma is to use a long line. In fact according to the booklet 'Running Rehabilitation Groups' by Kym Lawrence, the long line is the most useful piece of equipment employed by the trainers who run these groups.

A 'long line' is normally 10 meters (30 feet) in length, which is suitable in most cases. It should not have a handle at the end or any knots in it. The type of rope used is dependent upon the size of dog but it must not be too thin because of the danger of it cutting if the dog becomes entangled in it if it does take off. Additionally a thin line could cause an injury to the handler’s hands under the same circumstances. If it is necessary to have a lighter line it would be better to have one that is shorter than one that is too thin.

For stronger small dogs, medium sized dogs and upwards the climbing rope you can obtain from outdoor pursuit shops is normally suitable. This also has the advantage of not rotting and drying quickly when it gets wet. It should be attached to a collar of the buckled or clip-on type that does not tighten up so as to avoid injury. It is also recommended that the line should not be attached to a head-collar because of the whiplash effect that could occur if the line suddenly became tight when a dog is travelling at speed.

The effect of a long line can be maximised if the right approach is used. You should first ensure that your dog has learnt a wait (stay) command and a change of direction signal such as "This way”. Once a good response to these commands has been established the use of the line can be introduced. To avoid developing a pulling problem ensure that the line never becomes tight.

Whether the whole length of the line is utilised from the outset will depend on the behaviour of the dog. For instance, a dog that constantly runs around herding the owner will benefit from a gradual increase in line. However, no matter what length of line is used you must avoid wrapping the line around your hands. Instead you should hold it at the length you want it to be and allow the rest to trail behind you. One reason why a good 'wait' response should be developed prior to introducing the line is so that should the line wrap itself around one of the dog's legs, it must be dropped immediately otherwise the dog may suffer an injury. If it is has been wound around your hand, a quick reaction is impossible. Of course the risk of not dropping the line has to be weighed against the risks involved in letting the dog run free.

**** There are five stages to line training. The initial stage will be the longest to achieve but it is important not to rush the stages because this will impede overall progress.

The first stage involves introducing the line in an area without distractions, so that you and your dog can become accustomed to its use and the methods with the greatest chance of success. It is likely that your dog will try to extend the line to its fullest extent, but just before the line begins to tighten, give your change of direction signal of ‘this way’. Give the signal just before you turn away at least 90, but preferably 180, degrees from your line of travel and keep walking. Timing and consistency of movement is vital. Don’t wait to see if your dog responds to the change of direction signal, just go. Your dog will have no choice but to follow and when it does give it lots of effervescent praise to reinforce the correct response. When your dog catches up with you praise it by stroking and by giving it the reward of a tit-bit or its toy produced from your pocket.

Walking up the line can help you to develop the ‘wait’. After your dog has displayed the appropriate response to the ‘wait’ signal, walk up the line as if it is a tightrope. This will prevent your dog from moving away from you at the last moment. Upon reaching your dog, give it praise and material reward.

Once your dog responds well to these techniques and your confidence in your ability to control it increases distractions can be gradually introduced. When it has learnt to respond to your signals, even in the presence of distractions, the line can be dropped. However keep the line within reach, so that you can control it by briefly stepping on the line a split second after a verbal signal has been given.

When sufficient progress has been made, you can change the original line for one that is shorter or cut a section off the one you have been using. Once you have done this you should go back to using the techniques in an area with no distractions and repeat the development procedure you used when the line was at its full length. Over a period of time, (e.g. every 7 days) cut 6" from the line until the line no longer exists. Of course, the rate of progression is dependent upon progress, and you should always be prepared to take a step or two backwards if problems occur.

Some dogs seem to learn that they are under extra control if they hear two clicks, one associated with the line being put on and the other with the removal of the lead. As an extra precaution always 'double-click' you lead's 'g-clip' when you take the lead off even when you are no longer using the long line.

This article is based on a new booklet about rehabilitation groups written by Kym Lawrence who is a member of the APBC. It should be of interest to all trainers with a special interest in problem behaviour. Please note no responsibility can be taken for hurt or damage caused by correct or incorrect use of the techniques described in this article.

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Please note that the Pet Behaviour Centre and David Appleby cannot be held responsible for death or injury to people or animals, or damage to property caused by the correct or incorrect use of the techniques described in this article.